Letteratura Alpinismo Arti Visive
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to one of the most beautiful
and difficult mountain on earth
Spur is one of the greatest challenges for the contemporary
mountaineering. With its 4000 m drop and 7 km of probable development,
it is for climbers one of the most impressive structures that can be
climbed on great mountains on Earth. Indeed, NW
Spur, from the orographic point of view, keeps an absolute
records; it is, being a spur, that is a mountain structure with a
distinguished and coherent shape from the base to the top
[differently from the ridge that can have
intermediate summits], the "longest spur of the world".
So imposing that few climbers have tried to climb its difficult flanks.
In 1987 an expedition guided from the
expert German mountaineer Hubert Bleicher, first climber on two
other colossus of Hunza Valley, Shispare (7611 m) and
Batura I (7795 m), was arrested in front of what was defined by
friends "an unbelievable challenge", one incredible
[or inconceivable?] challenge.
In 2001 a French expedition with young
protagonists of the French mountaineering, Manu Pellisser and
Manu Guy, did not go very far black cliffs that leaded to suspended
glaciers of the spur.
Bad weather and objective difficulties of the spur, not easy to
conciliate with the alpine and light style of modern expeditions, were
between the primary causes of the failure.
To make a dream come true, and to make it a project,
you must demonstrate its realizability, in spite of the objective
difficulties, the immeasurable incognito and the history already written.
For five years we have collected material for giving foundation to our
possibility of climb the mountain. Possibility that is based on the
hypothesis to penetrate on the unexplored Masot glacier and to directly
tackle the spur on ice and snow.
A satellite image illustrates our hypothesis, confirmed in the picture
taken by the explorer Leo Klimmer, the German mountaineer who
just underneath the summit of Sani Pokush, peak of nearly 7000 m
in the Batura massif, took
one of the most powerful picture ever done on mountains of
the world: the RAKAPOSHI
NORTH FACE in its unquestionable power and
The photo of Leo has confirmed our hypothesis and it has allowed to
trace the possible climbing route.
Here underneath the face seen frontally, from the Karakorum Highway.
But who are the climbers who stepped outside the dream in order make it
become an hypothesis of true? A project. Not only an mountaineering
artistic, a Work of the Muses [so we translate
our ArtVideoMix productions] that would leave a mark on
the mountain, but also on the skin of those who receive the emotions
through artistic communication?
Who are MOUNTAINEERS & ARTISTS engaged in
this multidisciplinary exploration?
RAKAPOSHI 7788 m -
KARAKORAM - PAKISTAN
Leo Klimmer, Manfred Schäfer
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MONTAGNE D'ISLAM - Vertical Rock - N° 20 janv./fév. 2002